It's nice to wake up indoors once and a while. I saw that Purple Rain had cooked herself a breakfast in the communal kitchen. It was unanimous, once all eyes were open, that breakfast had to be made in bulk. After a quick trip across the street for supplies, plates were covered with chocolate chip pancakes, biscuits, eggs with onions and peppers, and corned beef hash. It was epic, and we all ate to bursting.
We moved slowly after breakfast, lounging in front of the tube and organizing gear. Eventually we made it back to the market to get a full resupply going. We needed 3 days worth of food and fuel to get us up the Tennessee Turnpike to Damascus. It was a quick resupply and then back to the hostel to pack everything up. Mr. Fantastic and I didn't set out until around 4pm. Our laziest start to date.
Today we had to tackle Pond Flats, a 6 mile PUD (pointless up down) that we were warned to be wary of. It was described as very tough, with no view and no water. They were right about the view, but it wasn't a bad hike, and we had more water than we would have liked.
The thunderstorm moved in right around the time we started climbing, but we got out rain gear on in good time. We chatted and hiked; talking about DC food plans, movies, and actors.
After going over Pond Flats we cross a street to Watauga Lake and see Pinky hitching his way out. Who knows where he was off to. The end of Memorial Day and arrival of thunderstorms had chased away all the lakeside enthusiasts.
A sign on a tree claimed that the shelter was a mere mile away. We passed a plethora of tents pitched at various campsites strewn all about the lake. People who had set up their tents in the sunshine of the day, only to be driven inside them when the rains came.
Just when we had started to believe that we missed the shelter, Tender Fungus informed us from his hammock that we were only 30 feet away. James (the newly named but not oft spoken Shenanigans) and Chief Kickin' Wing were there to greet us as we ducked under the cover of the shelter.
It took a while to get situated while hiding from the rain, but eventually food was eaten and bedrolls were spread. Optimus joined us in the shelter and Lavender set up her tent. That wouldn't be the worst plan for someone with an arachnophobia, since we do have a couple of big wolf spiders lurking on the walls. To be honest though I'd rather have a wolf spider on my face than set my tent up in this rain.
We hear that it may rain all week.. Just par for the course on the good 'ole Appalachian Trail this year. Regardless of the weather, 2 long days will bring us to Virginia and out of the meandering NC/TN border. This is the point Mr. Fantastic has been excited for, because he feels it's a milestone to be entering the state with the most miles of trail. I personally felt that it'd be a milestone when it's complete. I think on this we're both right.
An exhausting day of relaxation
I awoke from a dream in which I was using the bathroom, realizing with relief that I hadn't let my bladder go in my waking life. After birthing out of my tent, as it always feels, I shuffled away to make water. I didn't leave until 9:30am, but was still only the second to leave for the day (behind Tree Trunks).
It was mostly descents today leading to Laurel Falls, and the closer I got, the more I realized we were still among the Memorial Day crowd. I came to a road crossing with a parking lot and found myself surrounded by 40 people. Most of the people were black, which is only worth mentioning because we pretty much don't see anyone who isn't white, or occasionally Asian. So we smelly hikers quickly became the minority in this area. Another mile brought me to Laurel Falls, and it became apparent that there would be no escaping the day-hikers today. As I started a severely steep rocky descent to the Falls I passed a family who shouldn't have been attempting such an extreme hike. The mother was a tenth of the way down and begging her family to stop for the sake of her knees. I chatted with them for a bit before passing them, and had time to eat lunch and go for a swim before they made it to the bottom. I waffled between wanting to scold them of the danger, as they had little kids, and commend them on their efforts. I split the different and did neither, but did recommend trekking poles to the mother (she honestly complained to me that they hadn't installed handrails).
Laurel Falls was absolutely beautiful, and the best place to eat lunch so far on the trail. Tree Trunks and Rose were swimming when I got there, and we chatted it up while the tourists came and went. When the rest of our crew arrived they went swimming as well, and after a good long break we took off in search of lunch.
The rest of the hike into town was also stunningly beautiful, if not a little too crowded. Our band of merry hikers headed to town consisted of Optimus, Lavender, Purple Rain (no longer feeling ill), Pinky, Mr. Fantastic, and myself. We got to the road, and made a beeline for Subway for first dinner.
We took a long time there, enjoying the A/C and free refills. Purple Rain had already gone on to the hostel, and Pinky was working on a plan to hitch to Watauga Lake for "the big party" that he knew he was meant for.
Heading back the way we came we made our way to the Castle Hostel. Upon arriving we met up with Purple Rain, Wendigo, and Meta! While still about a day behind Meta, he got here from a different road, and was taking it easy as he had felt a little ill. It's interesting this far into the hike that when you go to a hostel there's a good chance you'll know every other hiker there.
Mr. Fantastic went across the street with Lavender and Optimus to the biker bar that housed the laundry facility. I charged my devices while watching Romancing the Stone on VHS with Meta, Wendigo, and Purple Rain. Of course I also watched the latest Game of Thrones. A lot of changes from the book, but I was very happy to finally see the Battle of Blackwater Bay!
Everyone came back from the bar, sans laundered clothes which were still drying, and I returned to it with Mr. Fantastic to eat some dinner and retrieve them. The food was tasty with big portions, and dirt cheap. Dollar draught beers makes everyone's night a happy one!
With the chores out of the way, we still plan to take it easy tomorrow. This oppressive heat makes everything much more challenging, and everyone is feeling it. We only have 7.8 miles planned for tomorrow, which will leave us at Watauga Lake to cool off and have a great place to camp. After that it's just a straight shot to Damascus down what is known as the Tennessee Turnpike, a very flat section of trail. I'm personally hoping it lives up to it's name.
Back on Track
The unfortunate side effect of camping by water in the woods is the condensation. I expected it, but my tent was quite soaked through by morning dew.
We had a short 12.4 day planned, taking us to Moreland Shelter. Everyone was feeling lethargic today except for me. It was a welcome change to feel strong after a few weak days. I'd prefer everyone feel good at the same time, but that never seems to be the case.
Shortly after eating and setting out, the 4 of us bumped into Dick Flap/Too Far and Stonechair as they headed South. Apparently the note left in a shelter we read previously was left by either Meta or Tapeworm to mess with us/him. It definitely worked. After Dick Flap and Stonechair felt better they had started hiking South back toward Erwin, and then plan to hitch back to Damascus. We should reach Damascus at about the same time, so that could be entertaining. We all shared stories about what to see and what to avoid to the North and to the South. It was very valuable for all of us to be able to relate such detailed info to each group.
Meta is between 1-2 days ahead of us, and Tapeworm is off the trail having his ankle looked at. Hopefully all is well with him soon.
Moving on I took the lead and lost my retinue by the time we reached the first shelter. It was a fun walk for me, winding past waterfalls, and I decided to take my lunch 7.4 miles in at Upper Laurel Fork. It gave a great location for soaking ones feet and drying out some clothes. I'm listening to 11-22-63 by Stephen King with my hike and lunch today. If you're a fan of his Derry stories (It in particular, since this features some of the same characters), time travel, or JFK then I highly recommend it.
My heel is getting rubbed a little raw lately, I think from salty socks. The girls were talking about their fear of spiders last night, and this morning I was thinking about my fear of wet, crunchy socks. I think my fear is greater.
I made it to the shelter at 3pm, which is a time I love. I set out my solar charger and wet clothes to soak up some rays, and started into a second lunch. Tree Trunks and his dog Rose arrived right after me, and then the rest of my group, along with Pinky and the Four Old Broads (section hikers). Memorial Day weekend brings a lot of people out to the trail, some are unfortunately of the wrong element and leave trash around. Leave no trace is a pretty simple mantra for the forest. Thankfully all the section hikers here tonight are very cool.
Mr. Fantastic and I both overate to our hearts contents this evening, and at least for me it was much overdo.
Tomorrow is an insanely easy and fun day, to all of our mock chagrin. We hike 7 miles to Laurel Falls, the supposedly fantastic swimming hole with rope swing. After taking a long lunch there, we have 2.5 miles into Hampton. No hitching required.
We plan to get a room, nice but cheap, and be able to launder and shower. We're all very excited, as is out wont, and it should be a day to remember. Any meal in town is memorable, to be honest.
Catching Up
I was awoken at 5:30am by the sounds of 3 dogs running around and barking whilst their beleaguered owner thrust his lazy hand in the air mumbling "Come on now". There was enough predawn light to see, but not enough to get me out of my sleeping bag. I pushed that off until 6am.
The sunrise was pretty stellar, as expected, and I was feeling a good deal healthier. I was off by 7am and made it all the way to the road by 11am, which was 9.5 miles. The terrain was varied and wore me ragged. I walked across long dew covered balds, scrambled over massive rocks, and tripped through knotted root steps. It was a trial of a hike, and made me glad that I didn't attempt it last night.
Once at the road I asked if anyone had seen Mr. Fantastic come by. Tender Fungus was there, and pointed me in the direction of Roan Mountain (the town) which was 7 miles.
A quick hitch, phone call, and walk later found me sitting at the corner booth in Bob's Dairyland with Mr. Fantastic, Optimus, and Lavender. Also sitting in the next booth were Essay and Pinky. The food was good and cheap, and I got my french fries fix.
We walked to the local grocery store, and Dollar General to do our resupply. I took advantage of the good cellular service to make a couple phone calls and update the blog and whatnot. It's good to soak up a little connection in those rare moments when it's presented. Oh and thank you to Val for the food donation! I shall eat accordingly.
We split into 2 groups to hitch, since 4 is too many. However, when Mr. Fantastic and Optimus flagged a ride from a family with a pickup, they pulled into the lot and picked Lavender and me up as well. Made our afternoon a lot easier!
Being dropped off directly a the trail is always a joy, and this was no exception. The only complaint I could level at being back on trail is the intensity of the sun on days when I'm trying to get over dehydration. We had just 6 more miles to put in to bring us to a campsite by Elk River. On the way we encountered plenty of horse hoof prints and scat. I think if I'm not allowed to defecate on the trail, horses shouldn't be allowed to either. Just one man's opinion.
Moving on, we found a side trail for a great waterfall. A few weekenders were enjoying it's pools, but we decided to continue on and set up camp before going back. Of course once we found the campgrounds we realized that it's directly on Elk River, and that was just fine for cleaning off. Mr. Fantastic and Lavender both enjoyed a cleansing bath, but Optimus and I abstained (the water was ice cold, and we're planning to stay at a hostel in 2 days and can clean up then).
Optimus built a fire, and we all dug into our fresh food stores. Once our wood started getting low I set off to find some more for stoking. I went on a long walk that reminded me of how great it is to be doing this. With the river flowing to my right, mountains looming on my left, I'm walking across a swatch of path about 10in wide carved through shoulder-deep grasses. While never truly that far from civilization, sometimes you can feel like you're in another time. I scavenged some half-charred wood from the next fire pit North, and enjoyed a slow stroll back.
It was a brutally tiring day, but a very successful feeling one. I caught up with one of the two groups ahead of me, got new food supplies, ate a great BBQ pork sandwich, blogged about horse poop, and dried my socks over a fire next to a river at the foot of a mountain. While physically hard, emotionally it's been pure success.