Expert Advice

The shelter we were in last night had a thick coat of paint on the floor. This is unusual, and with my air mattress caused so much noise that at 3am I was forced to move outside. I slept on the unpainted wood slats in front of the shelter from that point on, and was glad they hadn't decided to paint those as well. I couldn't move my foot, let alone take a deep breath, without a plastic on plastic sticky creak waking everyone up.
Mr. Fantastic started the day off right with his Hall and Oates Pandora station. I have to agree with him, that it may quite possibly be the greatest thing that has ever happened in music. We were both feeling much more chipper, which was a good thing since we had 21 miles ahead of us WITH a stop in town. A feat we have never before accomplished.
Butter started out before us, I believe with the intention of making it to the road at the same time we did so she could hitch with us. We passed a good number of people on the trail this morning, including some section hikers, and one guy going for a quick-paced jog. 5 miles into our hike we caught up with Butter, and she followed for the last 2 to the road.
We weren't having a ton of luck hitching, but thankfully the jogger we had passed earlier saw us and offered up a lift. He actually brought us to a town further away than our plan, so Butter could look for a phone charger at the CVS, and then even waited while we did a resupply at the Safeway. After that he dropped us off at the Subway, where we thanked him profusely. He's the first ride we've gotten from a stranger who has waited for us to shop, and that was pretty spectacular.
Lunch was wonderful, made especially so due to Butter's newbie nature. She was loving every minute of the experience and couldn't believe how amazing her sandwich and soda were after a quick and dirty morning hike. I think her optimism was quite infectious.
We caught a ride back pretty quickly, and got to take our usual seat in the back of a pick-up. The locals were then treated to Butter hooting and hollering her joy at such an event, and we were again reminded of how special, strange, and freeing what we're doing is. Our driving angel made quick work of the curving mountain roads while we all absorbed the day in our own way.
Back on the trail at 1pm with 14 miles to go, we told Butter she could and should try to keep up, but I don't think any of us expected it. She dropped off after a couple of miles and we unfortunately didn't get a chance to say goodbye. But hey, that's what Facebook is for.
We hiked onward to another shelter for a snack and rest, where we met an older couple who thru-hiked in 2006. They were on a trip with a blind couple through Maryland, and we all shared stories and advice. Apparently the blind couple are kicking some ass, which is always amazing to hear about. The gentleman apparently even went to the base camp of Everest to be there when the first blind person summited. Pretty crazy!
The last 5 miles were the hardest, as everything over 16 always is. We felt our feet getting their usual amount of pounding, but were ecstatic with the cooler weather. The body can do amazing things when it isn't bogged down by thick humid 100 degree air. We felt strong again, for the first time in a while. I finished with my muscles, heart, and lungs all feeling healthy and great. Sore feet we can manage.
At our final shelter we met 3 guys in their 60's and 70's who planned on section hiking the 40 miles of trail in Maryland, today being the end of their first day. We shared a lot of info with them, and they asked questions with a voracious appetite. We've had a lot of days in a row of feeling like experts out here, and it's been great to share stories and the sorts of simple things we've learned. I think we're both feeling like we're truly back on the trail now, having had one bad day together, and now one good. Maybe our cycles are just aligning, I'm not sure.
Tomorrow is only 18 miles, with another quick romp into town. We have a wedding to look forward to, and visits from a few random friends. Most immediately though we can be excited to finish Maryland tomorrow and begin our Pennsylvanian adventure. Here's looking forward to lots of rocks!

P.S. At 9:20 Butter rolled in, quite ecstatic with her amazing progress in just a single day. Her plan is to go 100 miles, but at this rate she may crush a bit more trail than just that.

Dropping like flies

Our stay in DC was great. Maybe a little too great (a little too Raph for you Ninja Turtles Secret of the Ooze fans). On our zero day we went to REI, which was like a giant candy store. Mr. Fantastic returned a lot of gear, so he's back in working order. I picked up the next 3 maps, a new pillow, and sturdier water bladder for my filter. Jackpot.
We grabbed some pizza on the way back, and enjoyed a familial lunch.
That night was Mr. F's big birthday dinner, and I prepared by taking a prolonged nap. I also watched Indie Game: The Movie, which I would recommend to anyone interested in learning about the smaller end of the gaming industry.
I woke up just before the crowd started arriving. Dinner involved a lot of people, amazing food, and fascinating criss-crossing conversations around a massive table. It was a dinner party in the purest sense.
The following day was spent relaxing and watching Wimbledon, before Mr. Taylor gave us a lift back to Harper's Ferry. Goodbyes were hugged, and well-wishes tossed around. It was a great refresher from the trail.
Once back in town we jumped into a local B&B hostel for the night and met some other hikers. It was a great place to stay, but unfortunately had an awful snorer in there as well. No sleep.
In the morning we finally made our way to the ATC headquarters to register as official thru-hikers. We got our picture taken, and looked through the book at those who had come before us. We also bumped into Tiny Dancer and Pinball Wizard there, shortly before Dick Flap made a surprise appearance. He is now the last of our old crew that is still on the trail. Tapeworm was told he had to stay off of his knees for a month or he'd do serious damage, Optimus has stress fractures in her feet, and Meta stopped enjoying his trip. Mr. Fantastic and I both understood the loss of motivation, as each person we've met drops off you start to lose the best part of the trip: the community.
We still managed to get back onto the trail, though, after a lackluster lunch. When we ate a snack at the first shelter we came to we both talked about how much our motivation was failing us. We had just spent a couple of days in civilization, and came back to find our community lost. It's rare that we both feel down on the same day, but today it hit us pretty hard.
We hiked on toward the next shelter, passing a soda vending machine on the way that we lacked the proper singles for. What a loss! We wandered the park for 30 minutes asking strangers if they could make change, to no avail. At least we were able to fill up out water bottles, and then move forward.
Reaching the shelter I decided I would stop for the night. We had originally planned to hike another 5 miles, but with my lack of sleep and our late start I didn't have it in me. We met Dick Flap's lady friend, Butter, who was dozing in the shelter. We had heard about her often, so it was nice to place the face. The three of us chatted while Mr. F and I caught up on some calories.
Hopefully tomorrow will hold a quick resupply and a 21 mile day. We have to amp the miles back up, but we'll see what the terrain has in store for us. I think our spirits are higher now, but knowing that we won't bump into the old crew along the way steals a lot of the random joys. However I must say, the weather has cooled and I can feel a modicum of strength returning. I'm banking on that trend continuing!

DC Detour

I woke damp from the humidity. Not the most pleasant feeling, but I did sleep well, so why complain. I was immediately informed by Dirty D that Mr. Fantastic and Gizmo had arrived last night and had camped on the screened-in porch. At first I was a little jealous, but then Mr. F told me that the porch was full of mosquitos, despite the screen. Score one for the tenters.
I climbed back up the half mile to the ridge line and waited for my crew of 2 to join me. The sign says it was only a .2 hike, but we all decided that was as the crow flies, not as the hobbling hiker walks. They caught up in a few minutes and we began our 12.5 mile hoof to Harper's Ferry, the spiritual halfway point, the end of West Virginia (so fast!), and our ride to DC.
There was nowhere to get water on today's hike without adding a mile to the trip, so we decided to go all out with no lunch till town. Thankfully most of the terrain was quite pleasant, but unfortunately it was about 100 degrees again. The hike was uneventful and we spent most of the time chatting about 90's TV shows and videos games. We're all of that oh-so-special age; children of a decade that promoted tearing holes in ones jeans to fit in, and gaming consoles with mascots.
Other than a few quick breaks for water, stretching, or to tape up feet, we walked straight to our destination. Once in town we went to the Secret Six Tavern, after a few minutes of confusion when we got separated. We all quickly overate before Mr. Taylor arrived to shuttle us around.
First we made a quick stop back to Front Royal (now feeling like home after so many days there) so that Gizmo could get his car, and then it was off to DC. It was fun to travel so far in a car again, it feels like it's been forever.
Once at the Taylor household the three salty hikers went to three separate showers. How perfect is that. We all quickly cleaned up and then hopped in cars to go to Mr. Fantastic's dinner. For the last 2 months he's been talking about where this meal would take place, and exactly what he would order, so reaching this restaurant felt like an achievement all its own. I've never had Vietnamese before, so I let Mr. F choose my dishes. Crispy spring rolls and spicy orange chicken, which ironically is about what I'd order at my favorite Chinese restaurant. Dinner was fun and amazingly tasty. I ate more than my fill, and strangely enough (for me), felt completely at home and welcome at this family celebration.
We talked about having a classic video game contest, with some SNES Street Fighter II Turbo, but everyone was too tired to start it tonight. Tomorrow is another day though, and among the myriad of plans, the Taylor brothers will learn the bitter taste of vicious gaming defeat. Game over man.

Quadruple digits!

Mr. Fantastic started today on Gizmo's schedule, and got on the trail around 7:30am. I was a bit slower this morning, enjoying the comforts of my tent a little longer than necessary. Still, I got going at 8:30am.
We had thought that the Virginia roller coaster was further back, and that we had finished with it. We were wrong. I queued up for the ride, not really knowing what to expect. The profile on my map looked exceedingly easy, but its notoriety said otherwise.
After the first couple of pointless up-downs, I caught up with Mr. Fantastic and Gizmo. I had already passed by Dirty D, who had camped with us last night. Speaking of Dirty D, he remembered you, Mom and Vince, and even snagged one of the Gatorades you left by the trail. He was very grateful, and spoke highly of you both.
The temperature was quickly rising, and when we finished the 7 miles to the shelter for lunch, we were all happy for the break. Dirty D joined us as well.
I started off before the others, because I could already feel the heat of the day taking its toll. Dirty D passed me pretty quickly though, and at the second water source I stopped and waited for the rest of my retinue. They joined me for a brief rest, and then we got back on the roller coaster. None of the climbs were long, but many were very steep and rocky. It made for a day that was easy on the muscles, but terrible on the joints. The energy would have been nice to savor if not for the heat, which sapped any enjoyment from that area. Plus it was one of the buggiest days yet. I don't know how these gnats could have evolved to kamikaze into my eyes and ears, but it seems rather juvenile to sacrifice your life just to try and trip me up.
After a couple of miles I got out in front and kept going. The speed grants me a mild bug reprieve, a subtle breeze, and a chance to make it to the hostel before the sun sets. Of course hiking alone also means that when I reached the end of Virginia, the largest section of trail, and the 1000 mile marker, I did so alone, to no fanfare. Regardless, both achievements helped to raise my spirits on a rough day, and I kept on towards the faint possibility of a soda.
When I finally reached the blue blaze pointing toward the hostel I was dry but salty, starving, and very sore. The first thing I did was drop my pack at the bunk house, and follow Dirty D's instruction to meet the caretaker for a free soda. Thank you Chis! Dr. Bob is yet another Dr. Pepper knockoff, but it was fantastic all the same.
I ate a slow dinner with D, and decided to set up my tent instead of staying in the bunk. No A/C in a small bunk house full of people I don't know sounds like a recipe for a hot miserable night.
So here I lay, exhausted in my little tent. Mr. Fantastic and Gizmo still haven't arrived yet, so I'm beginning to wonder if they may have decided to camp along the trail. It was a rough day, and if I was Gizmo I'd never make it this far. Of course he is in much better shape than I was when I started this adventure, so who knows what'll happen. Maybe he's trying out a little night hiking. Either way, I'll reunite with them tomorrow on the way to Harper's Ferry. Then onward to DC. It feels great to be this far along, and I'm hoping that the second half of this trip will have an emotional feeling of downhill. Not a physical feeling though, as that's how I hurt my knees and feet.