The Mohican Outdoors Center gave me a great nights sleep, and when the sun woke me I packed and snuck out. I didn't want to wake the snoring sectioner. I stopped in for one last sandwich at the lodge, and then continued up the trail.
The first planned half of my day was beautiful, 7 miles of cool breezes and rockless trail. I quickly left the section I'd hiked before, and was back in the wilderness of new territory.
I stopped for a brief lunch, and almost immediately the trail changed on me again. The rocks came back, and with them the bugs. The last couple of miles before the shelter were torturous, and I couldn't wait to reach safety from my orbiting bloodsucking friends.
When I finally found the sign for my shelter, I had to scuttle down a half mile just to find my worst nightmare. The shelter was sitting right next to a massive stagnant pool of water, and the whole area was abuzz with mosquitos. I tried putting my gear down, but my hiking poles and pack were immediately enveloped by the beasts, so I thrashed around to reclaim my gear and sprinted back up that half mile. I hoped reaching the top the bugs would abate, but my exertion made me hot and sweaty, which just kept them on me.
My only option was to hike another 4 miles to town, where I'd be meeting my parents the next day. Wincing, cursing, and bitching my way across those last miles finally brought me to a road where I could collapse. Losing my tail of bugs was enough to raise my mood a bit, but then I had to walk another 2 miles to the nearest motel.
Checked-in, showered, and fed, I was finally feeling like a person again. I couldn't do another big day of hiking right after today, but thankfully I'd be saved from that fate. Tomorrow will be a well deserved zero with the parents. What more could I need after a day like today?
I Love NJ
I got up, packed my stuff, said my farewells, and walked to breakfast. I'm not a big fan of diner food, but for breakfast on the trail it's absolutely perfect! I wolfed down a corned beef hash omelette and slung my pack on my back to press on.
The trail goes along I-80 for a stretch before reaching NJ, since it has to cross the Delaware. It wasn't too hot in the sun, so the roadside walk wasn't as uncomfortable as it could have been.
As soon as I made it to the woods on the Jersey side, I was in an area I've hiked before with friends (you know who you are). There's something nice about hiking some place for the second time, because you know what to expect. I was quickly reminded that it's Saturday, because the parking lot was full and the moment I started climbing all I saw were weekend hikers.
It was an 11 mile day to the Mohican Outdoors Center, a small lakeside camping spot that I had been to once before. The weather was perfect, the terrain wasn't rocky, and the bugs were taking it easy (except the ticks, which were out in force). All in all it was a perfect day for hiking. On my way I passed by 2 places I had camped before, which was fun to see. The trail also went around Sunfish Pond, one of the 7 wonders of NJ. It's a glacial mountaintop pond that is quite beautiful, but too acidic for most fish to live in. Mostly the trail ridge lined along a beautiful stretch between PA and NJ, giving a sprawling 360 degree view of both states.
When I arrived at the MOC, I immediately ordered a sandwich and grabbed a couple beverages. It isn't really a restaurant, but they do make big homemade sandwiches that does the trick on a busy day outdoors. The proprietor showed me how to get to my cabin, and I made haste.
It was a dumpy little bunkhouse, but it was dirt cheap and I only had one other person to share the place with. For the evening I bought a bunch of snack foods and found a nice bench by the lake to watch the sun set. It's good to be home.
Delaware Water Gap
The rain came down in sheets last night, whipping up under the large shelter even. It was mostly just a misting under the roof, but surprising nonetheless considering how large the overhang was. One more hiker, Jeff, trundled in out of the rain before I passed out, but other than that all was quiet.
Everyone but Lush and me was up at 5:30am and out by 6:45. I got up at 7 and left at 7:30, leaving Lush to his breakfast. It was only 7 miles to Delaware Water Gap, where I'd be staying for free at the Church of the Mountain hostel. The rocks did let up a bit for my last stretch in PA, but it was a wet and slippery decent into town. Not to mention buggy.
When I made it to the gravel road into town it was 10am. As I was clomping down the sloped road, I noticed that my shadow was fuzzy. I glanced behind me only to see a frenetic mass of bugs with what I can only describe as hive-minded malicious intent staring me down. I did what any stout hiker would do.. and ran for my life, swinging my hiking poles in wild clumsy arcs as I panicked. By the time I skidded down onto a road with real traffic, I had lost my blood-sucking tails, and just looked silly for being out of breath running from nothing. I think I played it off nicely by ignoring it altogether and walking toward town.
I immediately headed towards the hostel, where I saw Etch-a-sketch and was greeted warmly by Condo and Germaine. I dumped my pack, checked out the digs (where I found Dino DNA taking a nap), and wandered off toward food.
The rest of my day was very relaxed, eating, reading, and chatting with other hikers. I saw a lot of other hikers throughout the day. Shade and Shadow were there camping, so it was good to see them again. Oh and I got a free root beer float because the ATM in Zoe's Ice Cream was broken. Maybe not quite trail magic, but definitely some trail luck.
By the time night had fallen, beer had been acquired by a tough as nails lesbian couple (whose names I'm forgetting), so Condo, Germaine, Jeff, and I partook. That's how our night eventually came to a close (after a second beer run was made). It was agreed that it felt extremely right to be drinking in a church basement, considering that all of us are not only dirty hikers, but also filthy heathens. That's my kind of trail magic.
Keep your head down
When I got out of my tent, around 8am, the only person left in camp was Etch-a-Sketch. I joined her for breakfast, and I'm beginning see different trends in this community of hikers. Where last summer most people I knew would yellow blaze, this summer everyone hates yellow blazers. I'm curious if this is because I'm out here with a much earlier crew, or if the hiker community this summer will continue to frown on it.
Whatever the case, I finished up my meal and bid Etch adieu.
My left hip is aching pretty good, so I started a little slow to let it warm up. No such luck since it was rocks right from the start. Also basically straight to the end. I hobbled over the terrain for 4.5 miles and then down into Wind Gap. Once in town I headed for the first open place that sold food, the Beer Stein. Inside I found Sky Pilot and Mr. Chips, two of the guys I had camped with last night. I hopped onto a barstool in the style of Commander Ryker, and ordered a quesadilla with 3 birch beers.
It was noon when I finished my meal, and I quickly stopped at the gas station for some snacks before walking back up the road to the trail. I got a few waves and honks from the townspeople as I made my way, but mostly just curious stares.
The climb out of the gap was of course a bitch, but thankfully short. It was another 9 miles to the Kirkridge shelter, so I tried to keep my pace quick and my breaks brief. I honestly don't know any other ways to say how rocky this bit is. It's all anyone is discussing, and I wish I had finished it before dropping off last year. I'm putting my feet through a lot of wear and tear right at the offset. I can't even take a moment to glance around, because if I'm not staring for my next awkward step, I'm about to fall. You couldn't pay me to hike the northern 40 miles of PA again.
It was a nice day, if a little hot, but the bugs were the worst I've ever experienced. I couldn't stop moving or the swarm that rides my draft would catch up and attack in unison. Occasionally I would, just to start smashing them all against my body in a futile effort to quell their numbers.
Even with how crap a day it was, my spirits are pretty high. It's starting to feel like home again out here, and Pennsylvania will be behind me tomorrow (the mantra I repeated all day).
When I got to the shelter I was met by Sky Pilot and Mr. Chips, as well as Etch-a-sketch. She was on her way forward, to camp closer to Delaware Water Gap with the rest of her merry troupe. SP and Mr. C kept the conversation going while I stuffed my face, and we all dragged our gear under the roof when the sky started to darken. Just before the rain started to fall another hiker joined us by the name of Lush, who is from Lumerton.
Tomorrow I just have 7 miles into Delaware Water Gap, and I'll be staying at the hostel there. That should give me a nice nearo to heal up, because I have the beginnings of some blisters. It's going to feel so good to be out of PA, and then I'll be on the same stretch of trail that I first did years ago.
It's looking like it's going to be a very wet night, apparently with tornado warnings. Thankfully this shelter is much nicer than the last few, and I'll by cozy and dry in my sleeping bag. Well, mostly dry.. there's no such thing as dry on this trip.
